By Kimberly Kaye
Editors’ note: Today marks the launch of our newest City Belt column, But I Digest…, which will feature restaurant reviews and food features from Kimberly Kaye. We’re very happy to have such a well-versed and inquisitive food writer on board – enjoy!
Let me begin by explaining that I happened upon Thai cuisine completely by accident several years ago. I had stumbled out of bed at noon, like most college students, bleary eyed, smelling faintly of cheap beer, and hungry. Having long before sworn off any of the “food” in the dining hall -- hangover munchies only once justified consumption such culinary travesties -- I made my way to the pile of delivery menus stationed at the entrance of our dorm for such occasions.
The pickings were slim: a single menu for Rita’s, undoubtedly the worst pizza available in NYC (which should be impossible in the land of phenomenal pies) and a battered pamphlet from Forest Thai, an establishment I had never even heard of. Red curry, green curry, bamboo shoots … these were not ingredients I was familiar with. But for $6.25 an entrée including a free “satay” with purchase, I figured it was time for an introduction. So I got one -- and it was friendly.
That afternoon began a passionate relationship with Thai food. Fine Asian cuisine, spice-influenced cooking, haute Thai-fusion, mom-and-pop shops -- I tried them all. But my “lover” -- the one who had my heart and physical devotion -- remained Forest Thai. And so it is with reverence that I announce: After dining at Bloomfield’s little gem, Pat Thai, I will begin cheating on my lover.
To call Pat Thai “quaint” or “cozy” would be misleading -- this is a hole in the wall establishment, and it should be. With no more than 20 seats in the entire place, you can cross through its doors and be in the kitchen in under 10 strides. Twinkling strings of tiny lights draped in mellow arcs along the walls, framed pictures of a smiling anonymous family, cool jazz and warm oldies being pumped into the small sound system by a laptop on the register -- these are the accoutrements of any great offbeat privately owned restaurant, and Pat Thai has them all. But most importantly, it has the food to keep customers filling its petite quarters.
Pat Thai offers the soul food equivalent of Thai cuisine. You could go to Spice Market in NYC and order your $25 entrée infused with Thai basil and lemongrass and flanked by a blood-orange mojito, but after the glitz of the first time fades, what remains? I try places like these from time to time, and the same thing always happens -- much like the morning after a night of infidelity with the hot cheerleader, I’m suddenly dissatisfied, craving the substance and the rooted depth of my old lover. Pat Thai has these in spades.
With appetizers averaging around $5.95 a pop and entrees around $9, and over 100 menu items in total, the B.Y.O. eatery offers an extensive array of affordable, home-style Thai food. Many novices shy away from Thai cooking with the same misguided excuse, “Oh, but I hate curry …”. But Thai curry dishes are not to be confused with the pungent and often overwhelming spice of Indian cookery; Thai cuisine uses coconut milk to cut and compliment the heated flavors curry provides. (One word of advice? When venturing into the spicy realm for the first few times, order Thai iced tea -- a cold, secret blend of brewed black teas with a touch of cream, it cuts the heat enormously and cleanses the palate between courses.)
Besides, Pat Thai focuses more on the foundations of solid native cuisine, highlighting flavors like refreshing lemongrass, sweet plum sauce, scallion, basil. There are the usual options of chicken, beef, duck, and noodle-based dishes, as well as an entire seafood section. Pat Thai also has some great traditional vegetarian items, with enough menu variety that any vegetarian could dine on three-course meals several times a week without needing to repeat items -- a true bonus for the North Jersey lacto-ovo stuck in a rut.
For you true carnivores, try out number 97, the Kaeng Ped Pedt Yang, sliced and perfectly tender roasted duck in a simple and flavorful red curry sauce with pineapple and bamboo shoots -- you won’t be sorry. Portions are ample, and the kitchen works its spiciness into dishes on a sliding scale that caters to the guests’ preference. They even accommodate those sharing items by sending out extra plates and rice to allow for sampling.
Pat Thai is simple, refreshing dining -- no pretensions, no fanfare. Our server, the only one in the restaurant during our visit, turned out to be Jerry, the husband of Pat, the manager of the establishment. He knows his regulars by name, takes orders, helps out in the kitchen, and has an easy, conversational way about him. He’s also knowledgeable about the food, and guides newbies through the menu like a mellowed old guru. He’s comfortable in his space, an intimate and eclectic little nook where you’re as likely to overhear the proprietor recommending a good meditation group as you are to tuck into a good chicken satay. It’s intimate eating in a relaxed atmosphere -- there’ll be no pushy server rushing you out over dessert in hopes for another table turn.
If you’re looking for the clamor and glamour of a celebrity-studded restaurant, go elsewhere. If you want a solid meal, a little quiet, and a place to share a great conversation, head over to Pat Thai, and try to get the seat by the window.
Pat Thai, 410 Bloomfield Ave, Bloomfield, NJ
973.259.0490
On the Web
Enjoyed the review on Pat Thai............ Next time I'm in the neighborhood, will be sure to try it........... This is a nice addition to City Belt.
Posted by: Joan Daigneault | 08/27/2006 at 03:56 PM
Pat Thai is one of the best Thai food in New Jersey.
I am a faithful customer for years. I am glad City Belt found out this place for everybody.
Posted by: Heart | 08/29/2006 at 10:33 PM
I have been eating at Pat Thai almost from the day it opened. Not only is the food consistently excellent, it is a friendly place where one can comfortably chat with the folks at the next table. Jerry has a wry sense of humor, while the owner Pat obviously really enjoys her work.
Posted by: Steven Jon Kaplan | 08/30/2006 at 05:01 AM
Hi Kimberly,
We love the review you wrote for Pat Thai Restaurant. You seemed to have captured the essence of our establishment with your insight and kind words. It's nice to hear you will be cheating on your former love, Forest Thai. We welcome that type of infidelity.
Best Regards,
Jerry
www.patthai.net
Posted by: Jerry | 09/21/2006 at 01:14 PM
I'm a big fan of infidelity too!
Posted by: | 01/12/2007 at 03:03 PM